Originally produced more than a decade ago through conventional lost-wax casting, the Bvlgari Cabochon ring presented certain design constraints, as the piece had to be divided into two halves later joined by a visible weld seam. In its reengineered version, the ring was manufactured as a monolithic hollow structure, achieving precise weight and removing any aesthetic compromise, which is essential at Bvlgari's level of craftsmanship.The project was driven by time-to-market requirements : the entire concept-to-production cycle was completed in under 60 days, allowing Bvlgari to meet an important product window without sacrificing quality. The production run spanned several thousand units in 18kt 3N yellow gold and 18kt 5N rose gold, placing the additive process under a real industrial stress test, while fully meeting the stringent visual and mechanical standards of fine jewelry.
Another significant advantage was sustainability: while traditional lost-wax casting requires up to nine production phases, the L-PBF approach reduced the process to just two steps: CAD modelling and 3D printing. This led to significant energy savings and a corresponding reduction in carbon footprint, all while preserving complete compatibility with subsequent artisanal finishing processes.
The Bvlgari Cabochon case study demonstrates that additive manufacturing is no longer confined to prototyping in the jewelry industry, but can now be a scalable, economically viable, and quality-compliant solution for full-scale production, suitable even for the most exacting standards of the luxury sector.
Speakers:
Damiano Zito, CEO, Progold S.p.a.
Ezio Dadone, Manufacturing & Industrialization Senior Director at Bulgari, Bvlgari